Wednesday, October 30, 2013

TUTORIAL PART 02

Here is the part two of the turtorial , there is also a big update on http://mars-irae.blogspot.fr/


TUTORIAL PART 02



Step 06/skin:

 I started with two diluted layers of citadel foundation paint to get something as uniform as possible.

 

After that I inked the whole skin or use the Rackham Soil of Avagddu to get inside the details.
Then progressively added the liquitex transparent color to some Vallejo paint that have a shade close to the citadel foundation I was using at the first step .
The foundation are not made to be transparent at all that why I have to use the Vallejo , with the liquitex added , it look like some sort of a gel , as it's really transparent you can get some nice overlay effects and it's quite clean with only few layers.


I like to add a bit of P3 brown ink to the mix to get a bloody/rotting aspect as the brown is actually a bit red/purple. I finished the skin with some pure liquitex transparent (or mixed with a bit of white ) to add some
highlight .

Friday, September 27, 2013

MARS IRAE

Dear followers,

This blog is back to life !
I recently played a 1000 points game and I motivated me to continue this project .
So there will be new miniature painted here.

Here is my pre-heresy army project

I will now update both websites,
 Their will be a big update on Mars Irae soon, and after that I will move back to the Nurgle stuff .

Thursday, July 4, 2013

This blog is not dead ! but he is rotting ...

Dear friends and follower .

Let's face it , I haven't be able to paint a single miniature during the last 4 month,
 I had to move from the south of France to Paris for a job and well...I didn't took anything to paint with me .

My initial plan was to start to paint again for myself in order to play a current edition of the game, but after some play test ,it was such a disappointment , it was like going back to the  3th french editions where it's only about magic weapon infused characters .
 I also realized that I will have to paint much more miniature than initially planned if I wanted to play decently ..
So what's going on now ? I have to move again for at least 3 years for an another job in Tokyo this time .
But I'm going to take some painting equipment with me, 
I don't know yet if I'm going to continue this army as it...

 I just embraced the Horus heresy stuff from forge world.
 so I'm going to run a new blog for a 1500/2000 point army of ...

Adeptus Mechanicus 

I will however keep the John Blanche inspiration for them.

More soon ...

Saturday, April 6, 2013

WHERE EVERYTHING STARTED .


Hi Comrades, 

This one is a bit special, this Nurgle champion "Mr Flyface" was painted in 2002, and did top 10 in the French golden demon in single fantasy miniature the same year.

So he will not be a member of my Nurgle army .

I had so much fun painting it that I knew that some day I will paint a whole bunch of them , It actually took me 8 years before being able to paint for myself again .

(I was studying CGI animation and I had a lot of painting commission for private customers to rise money , I will post more pictures about that later).


Most of the miniature already posted here where done within a period of 6 months.
 I still have few more things to show, but because of my job I will have to slow down until September , so It will take some time before being able to show you some group shots and the second part of the tutorial.




Saturday, January 26, 2013

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

TUTORIAL PART 01

TUTORIAL PART 01


Step 01/ Undercoating :

The flashes were removed with an electric drill, and all the dust was cleaned with water and soap.
I used a coat of Prince august acrylic black spray, It's a bit different than the GW one, with a more "dry" aspect.Usually, I do prefer the GW one, but this one was just cheaper .






Note that the covering is not perfect, the idea here is really just to have a layer that will help the others coats to stick to the surface.
The risk with trying to completely cover the miniature at this step is that it may occlude some small details (the paint might get too thick by trying to reach everything).

So here come the second coat, made with my airbrush and this mix of paints :




(The Airbrush is a Iwata Hi-line HP-CH, It's a very robust one, I have painted hundred of miniatures with it, I definitely recommend it.)

So, my second coat is a mix of three different things, Pelikan black ink, Createx black paint and Model Air Hullt Red.
The Pelikan is a very flat, water like ink, its great for airbrushing because the pigment are very small and it's very fluid.
The createx is a very shinny paint and it's quite cheap,It's also elastic. 
I have a lot of extra black bottles so I use them mostly for undercoating.
I also add few drops of the hull Red because I don't want something completely black .

Step 02/BaseCoat:

Nothing special here, the goal is to have a very uniform not too dark base coat.




The first highlight coat is sprayed quite heavily on the top of the miniature.





Now we have a solid light/shadow base for the cloth. 

Step 03/Highlight and Shadows:

We are going to shade the whole miniature with a diluted coat of Rackham Soil of Avagddu.
I really like this colour because it's an extremely flat mid-tone brown and it look great on almost every kind of surface, it's also create a cleaner result than most of other paint in one rough coat.(I'm sorry it's not very easy to see on the pictures)






The next step is a basic drybrushing ,made with a hard brush.
I usually use the brush a little bit on the side of the base before using it on the mini ,just to be sure that there is not too much remaining paint on the brush.




There is an extra coat of MIG warm white wash on top the mini to clean and blend the drybrush, especially where it's too white.
What is great with this paint is that it's actually a transparent white, so it's very light and clean once sprayed.


Step 04/DIRT!:

This is where the funny part start ! I'm going to spray splats of brown all over the miniature to simulate dirt.
I'm going to do this in two layers ,one very diluted, the other one pure.


To do that, you need to pull back the trigger for one second without spraying air, and in a second time just spray air without pulling the trigger.(you will need a two action hairbrush to do that, but you can achieve a similar effect by crushing a tooth brush)





Step 05/Lining:

It's now time to have a less messy vision of our miniatures, the philosophy of painting my army is the following :

The goal is to have a good balance between time/quality. I'm ready to spend a decent amount of time on them but I can't afford to have an army full of golden demon level miniature.
So the idea is to avoid high contrast soft blend on large surfaces, and have a more graphic, John Blanche like approach.
What is great with the dirt method I spoke about in the previous step, is that it's tend to hide the bad blending by creating interesting textures , and create artificially the missing contrast.(Rather than having an heavy shadow/light contrast, we are creating a "clean"/dirty contrast)


You can quickly achieve clean result with this method but you can't really apply it on the whole 32mm mini,because the result will be really hard to read.
So we need to separate each different surface with a dark brown line.


(If you look at some of the Jen Haley minis ( like this one http://www.paintrix-miniatures.com/images/luckylside.jpg ) you can observe that locally the contrast in each different material is quite low, between light and shadows, but the lining make everything popup and look awesome. Without it, the mini would have looked much more flat.)




For that I also used a Rackham paint called Dirty Leather, very flat and not to dark.



And that all for this time ! I hope you enjoyed it, and that it's make sense .