Tuesday, January 1, 2013

TUTORIAL PART 01

TUTORIAL PART 01


Step 01/ Undercoating :

The flashes were removed with an electric drill, and all the dust was cleaned with water and soap.
I used a coat of Prince august acrylic black spray, It's a bit different than the GW one, with a more "dry" aspect.Usually, I do prefer the GW one, but this one was just cheaper .






Note that the covering is not perfect, the idea here is really just to have a layer that will help the others coats to stick to the surface.
The risk with trying to completely cover the miniature at this step is that it may occlude some small details (the paint might get too thick by trying to reach everything).

So here come the second coat, made with my airbrush and this mix of paints :




(The Airbrush is a Iwata Hi-line HP-CH, It's a very robust one, I have painted hundred of miniatures with it, I definitely recommend it.)

So, my second coat is a mix of three different things, Pelikan black ink, Createx black paint and Model Air Hullt Red.
The Pelikan is a very flat, water like ink, its great for airbrushing because the pigment are very small and it's very fluid.
The createx is a very shinny paint and it's quite cheap,It's also elastic. 
I have a lot of extra black bottles so I use them mostly for undercoating.
I also add few drops of the hull Red because I don't want something completely black .

Step 02/BaseCoat:

Nothing special here, the goal is to have a very uniform not too dark base coat.




The first highlight coat is sprayed quite heavily on the top of the miniature.





Now we have a solid light/shadow base for the cloth. 

Step 03/Highlight and Shadows:

We are going to shade the whole miniature with a diluted coat of Rackham Soil of Avagddu.
I really like this colour because it's an extremely flat mid-tone brown and it look great on almost every kind of surface, it's also create a cleaner result than most of other paint in one rough coat.(I'm sorry it's not very easy to see on the pictures)






The next step is a basic drybrushing ,made with a hard brush.
I usually use the brush a little bit on the side of the base before using it on the mini ,just to be sure that there is not too much remaining paint on the brush.




There is an extra coat of MIG warm white wash on top the mini to clean and blend the drybrush, especially where it's too white.
What is great with this paint is that it's actually a transparent white, so it's very light and clean once sprayed.


Step 04/DIRT!:

This is where the funny part start ! I'm going to spray splats of brown all over the miniature to simulate dirt.
I'm going to do this in two layers ,one very diluted, the other one pure.


To do that, you need to pull back the trigger for one second without spraying air, and in a second time just spray air without pulling the trigger.(you will need a two action hairbrush to do that, but you can achieve a similar effect by crushing a tooth brush)





Step 05/Lining:

It's now time to have a less messy vision of our miniatures, the philosophy of painting my army is the following :

The goal is to have a good balance between time/quality. I'm ready to spend a decent amount of time on them but I can't afford to have an army full of golden demon level miniature.
So the idea is to avoid high contrast soft blend on large surfaces, and have a more graphic, John Blanche like approach.
What is great with the dirt method I spoke about in the previous step, is that it's tend to hide the bad blending by creating interesting textures , and create artificially the missing contrast.(Rather than having an heavy shadow/light contrast, we are creating a "clean"/dirty contrast)


You can quickly achieve clean result with this method but you can't really apply it on the whole 32mm mini,because the result will be really hard to read.
So we need to separate each different surface with a dark brown line.


(If you look at some of the Jen Haley minis ( like this one http://www.paintrix-miniatures.com/images/luckylside.jpg ) you can observe that locally the contrast in each different material is quite low, between light and shadows, but the lining make everything popup and look awesome. Without it, the mini would have looked much more flat.)




For that I also used a Rackham paint called Dirty Leather, very flat and not to dark.



And that all for this time ! I hope you enjoyed it, and that it's make sense .




5 comments:

  1. Excellent. Looking forward to part 2.

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  2. Really nice tutorial! Thanks you for taking your time. We coulnt wait to see this till february :D

    Happy New Year!

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  3. Excellent. I'm looking forward to read the following part.

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  4. A fascinating tutorial! Its nice to see an article about using an airbrush to tackle 28mm models. I suspect that many other readers are like myself, I own an airbrush (and have for some years) but I am largely ignorant of how to use it.

    Looking forwards to more...

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  5. Great tutorial, congrats!
    Love the tones you're using for them.

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